· How to know the quality of best bishnupuri silk? | Baluchari Silk Saree
Baluchari came after muslin in the history of textiles in Bengal. Two hundred years ago, the Baluchari operation was carried out in a small village called Baluchar in the Murshidabad area, where it was named. Nabal Murshidkuli Khan of Bengal supported their rich weaving tradition in the eighteenth century and brought the art of making this sari from Dhaka to the Baluchar region of Murshidabad and encouraged the industry to flourish.
After the flood of the river Ganges and later the immersion of the village, the factory moved to the village of Bishnupur in the bank area. Baluchari sarees are made of tasar silk and a thousand years ago the king of Jagat Malla ruled in Mallabhum. This booming trend declined, especially during the British occupation, for political and financial reasons. It became a dying art as most of the weavers were forced to leave the profession.
In the first half of the twentieth century, Subho Thakur, a renowned artist, felt the need to revive the rich culture of Baluchari handicrafts. Although Bishnupur was always famous for its silk, he invited Bishnupur weaver Akshay Kumar Das to learn jacquard weaving. Shri Das then returned to Bishnupur and worked hard to weave Baluchari in his loom with the financial and moral support of Shri Hanuman Das Sarada of Resham Khadi Seva Mandal.
A variety of handicrafts flourished when Bishnupur was the capital of the Malla dynasty and during their time under the rule of the Malla dynasty. Temples made of terracotta bricks were one of the achievements of these rulers. The great influence of these temples can be seen in the sarees of Baluchari. Stories from myths taken from the walls of temples and woven into Baluchari saris are a common feature in Bishnupur.
The production process of Baluchari can be divided into several parts:
Cultivation of cocoons: Since it was discovered many years ago that the caterpillars or threads that bind the cocoons could be made into beautiful and durable fabric, insects have been bred for the purpose of producing green silk. String processing:
To soften the thread, boil it with soda and soap and give it an acidic color as per the requirement of the saree. The rope is pulled from both the sides to the opposite direction and power is exercised with both the palms. This process is necessary to make the character crisp.
Motif making: Creating motifs for 'Pallavas' and other parts of Baluchari is a complex process in itself. The design is painted on graph paper and the piercing is done using cards. After punching, these cards are sewn sequentially and sewn on a jacquard machine.
Weaving: After the launch of the jacquard frame, it takes five to six days to weave a Baluchari saree. Two weavers work in turn.
Baluchari so well groomed becomes the epitome of aristocracy, the dress of status. The quality of Baluchari sarees is carefully preserved. From mortality to sari implant quality is considered.
Variety of Baluchari Sarees
Baluchari sarees, or the place they called Baluchari sarees, today usually have images of the streets of the Mahabharata and Ramayana. In the Mughal and British periods, his pallu had a square design with paisley motifs, And he painted scenes from the life of the Nawab of Bengal, depicting smoking women, mounted wagons and European officials from eastern India. company. It can take two craftsmen about a week to make one saree. The main material used is silk and after weaving the saree is polished.
Although there is not much variation in the weaving method used today, balucharis can be broadly classified on the basis of the fibers used in the weaving pattern
Baluchari (Silk): Simple Baluchari with single silk strands to weave the entire pattern
Baluchari (Meenakari): These balucharis have two or more colored strands with attractive meenakari activity that illuminate the pattern.
Swarnachari (gold baluchari), also called swarnachuri: the most beautiful balucharis, woven with gold (gold) or silver threads (usually with a meenakari ceremony in another colour) illuminating patterns on a very large scale .
Uses of Baluchari Saree
These saris were mainly worn by the women of high families and in the zamindars of Bengal during ceremonies and weddings.
Organic Baluchari
With the change of times, there was a change and eco-friendly touch with the strings and colors used in Baluchari sarees.
Cotton is woven with twigs of banana and bamboo and the colors are fruits, flowers, leaves and vegetables such as pomegranate, berries, neem fruits and leaves, basil leaves, turmeric, marigold flowers, mango and so on.
Organic Baluchari cotton sarees are on display at the Saree Exhibition organized by Rang Mahal, the festival of weavers of the Nadia region of West Bengal. However, with the GI certificate of Baluchari sarees in reference to the Bankura region of West Bengal in India, it is now illegal to use the name Baluchari in any other similar cotton-based product or in any other material.
0 Comments